For suits, fabrics and accessories are very important, but the quality of a suit is determined by the lining, because it can connect the two materials with completely different ductility, fabrics and accessories.
The relatively cheap and suitable method for ready-made clothing is to use fusible interlining. After a low-grade fusible interlining suit is worn for a period of time, the fabric and accessories of the suit will no longer fit together and pull each other in another direction.
A good lining should be made of natural materials such as wool, linen, and horsehair. The purpose is that when the fabric and accessories of the suit are running around, they can move around to a limited extent and help them reset at the same time. A good suit must have a good lining, which can be sewn with a lapels by hand. Only such a suit will have a three-dimensional arc like an armor. Of course, such a lining is by no means cheap.
Fabric aspect
The main factor that determines the price of fabrics is the place of origin. The prices of domestic fabrics and imported fabrics are very different. Imported fabrics are mainly concentrated in Italy and the United Kingdom.
Whether you use domestic fabrics or imported fabrics, the ingredients are basically wool, and of course other ingredients, such as cashmere, but high-quality fabrics use natural fabrics instead of synthetic materials. What you need to remember is that sometimes you write With cashmere, the quality level is far different. Usually, the prices of domestic fabrics in various domestic custom shops are reasonable, and of course they are cheaper, which is why we see some ready-made suits with prices lower than 200 yuan.
Identification of pure wool fabrics
Pure wool fabrics are natural and soft in color and have good warmth retention. It is a good fabric for making good suits and coats. But now there are more and more imitation wool fabrics. With the improvement of textile technology, it has reached a level that most customers are difficult to identify, but the color, warmth, hand feel, etc. are far behind pure wool fabrics. Here are several ways to identify pure wool fabrics for your reference when choosing clothing and fabrics.
1. Feel the touch
Pure wool fabrics usually feel soft and smooth, and long-haired fabrics feel smooth to the touch and feel tingling against the hair. And blended or purified fiber products, some are not soft, some are too soft and loose, and have a sticky feeling.
2. Look at the color
The color of pure wool fabric is natural and soft, bright and without old feeling. In contrast, blended or purified fiber fabrics have darker gloss or a sense of shining color.
3. Look at flexibility
Squeeze the fabric tightly with your hands, and then immediately let go to see the elasticity of the fabric. Pure wool fabrics have a high resilience rate and can quickly return to their original shape, while blended or chemical fiber products have poor wrinkle resistance, mostly leaving obvious wrinkle marks or slow recovery.
4. Identification of combustion method
Take a bunch of yarn and burn it with fire. The smell of pure wool fiber is like burning hair, and the smell of chemical fiber fabric is like burning plastic. The harder the burned particles, the more chemical fiber components.
5. Single root identification
All animal hairs are scaly under the microscope. If it is a long-haired fabric, just take a hair and rub it a few times and it will move up or down (in order to master this technique, you can first use a hair to test), if It is an ordinary fabric. Take a piece of yarn, cut two 2 cm sections and disassemble them into one fiber. Rub them four or five times in the palm of your hand to see if they move.
Wool blend fabric
Wool blended fabrics are fabrics made of cashmere, polyester, spandex, rabbit hair and other fibers mixed with wool. Wool and polyester blended fabric, under the sun, the surface has shining spots, the fabric is firm and hard, and has good elasticity. After gripping the fabric, it is loosened and there are almost no wrinkles.
Main categories:
1. Rabbit fur
Generally, a certain proportion of rabbit hair and wool blended fabric are used. The characteristics of rabbit sweaters are fine fibers, smooth hand feeling, fluffy surface, soft color, good fluffy, comfortable and chic, and the surface fluff is easy to fall off during wearing, and it keeps warm. Better than wool clothing.
2. Chemical fiber wool
The breaking strength of the fiber is higher than that of wool fiber, and it will not be eaten by insects, but its elastic recovery rate is lower than that of wool, and its warmth retention is not as good as that of pure woolen sweater.
3. Wool blended with animal hair and chemical fiber
It has the “complementary characteristics” of various animal hairs and chemical fibers, its appearance is woolly, its tensile strength is improved, and the cost of sweaters is reduced. It is a high-quality and inexpensive product. However, in blended sweaters, there is a problem of unsatisfactory dyeing effects due to the different dyeing and color absorption capabilities of different types of fibers. Purified fiber imitation wool
It has the natural style characteristics of natural fiber. Bright color, good gloss, crisp, elastic, suitable for the public.
